How to Change Guitar Strings: Step-by-Step for Acoustic and Electric
Fresh strings make any guitar sound better and stay in tune longer. Here is exactly how to change them, without the frustration.
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Start freeIn this guide
- How to tell your strings need changing
- What you need
- Step 1: Remove the old strings
- Step 2: Clean the guitar (optional but worth it)
- Step 3: Attach the new strings at the bridge
- Step 4: Wind the string at the tuning post
- Step 5: Tune up and stretch
- Step 6: Trim the ends
- Changing strings on different guitar types
- A quick string-changing checklist
- Common string-changing mistakes
- How long do strings last?
- When to see a guitar tech
- Next steps
- Frequently asked questions
Changing strings is one of the first maintenance jobs every guitarist needs to learn. Old strings sound dull, feel rough, go out of tune easily and break at the worst possible moment. A fresh set makes even an inexpensive guitar sound bright and lively again.
It can feel intimidating the first time, but it's a simple routine you'll get faster at with every set. This guide covers the tools you need, the steps for both acoustic and electric guitars, and how to get new strings to stay in tune.
How to tell your strings need changing
- They sound dull or flat, with less sparkle and sustain than you remember.
- They feel rough or gritty when you slide your fingers along them.
- They look discolored, dark or rusty, especially under the frets.
- They won't stay in tune, or chords sound slightly off even when the open strings are tuned.
- One has broken. If the others are old, it's a good time to change the whole set.
For most players who practice several times a week, that means every one to three months. If your hands sweat a lot, it may be more often.
What you need
- A new set of strings made for your type of guitar. Acoustic steel strings, electric strings and classical nylon strings are not interchangeable.
- A string winder (optional but saves a lot of time). Many include a bridge-pin puller for acoustics.
- Wire cutters to trim the excess string. Some winders have cutters built in.
- A tuner. Our free online guitar tuner works well.
- A soft cloth to wipe down the fretboard while the strings are off.
Not sure which strings to buy? Our guide to choosing guitar strings explains gauges and materials.
Step 1: Remove the old strings
- Loosen each string by turning its tuning peg until the string is completely slack. A string winder makes this quick.
- Cut the strings near the middle with wire cutters, or unwind them fully. Cutting is faster and safer once they're slack.
- Remove the ends from the headstock and the bridge.
Some players prefer to change strings one at a time to keep tension on the neck. Removing all of them at once is perfectly safe for a short time and gives you a chance to clean the fretboard.
Step 2: Clean the guitar (optional but worth it)
With the strings off, wipe the fretboard and frets with a dry or slightly damp cloth. Unfinished rosewood or ebony fretboards can take a tiny amount of fretboard conditioner a couple of times a year. Maple fretboards are usually finished and just need wiping.
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Step 3: Attach the new strings at the bridge
Acoustic guitars with bridge pins
- Place the ball end of the string into the bridge hole.
- Push the bridge pin in with its groove facing the string.
- Pull the string gently upward while pressing the pin down, so the ball end seats against the bridge plate inside the guitar, not on the end of the pin.
Electric guitars
Most electrics either have strings that pass through the body from the back, or a tailpiece or bridge the string threads through. Feed the plain end through until the ball end catches. On guitars with a floating tremolo, it's easier to change one string at a time so the bridge doesn't shift.
Classical guitars
Nylon strings are tied at the bridge with a simple loop knot rather than ball ends, which is a slightly different process worth looking up separately.
Step 4: Wind the string at the tuning post
This is the step that decides whether your guitar stays in tune.
- Pull the string through the post hole and leave some slack. A good rule: pull it tight, then back it off about two to three inches (roughly the distance between two tuning posts) for thick strings and a little more for thin strings.
- Kink the string sharply at the hole, bending it in the direction it will wind.
- Turn the tuning peg so the string winds neatly downward around the post, each wrap below the last. Keep a little tension on the string with your other hand.
- Aim for two to three wraps on the thick strings and three to five on the thin ones.
| Headstock layout | Which way to wind |
|---|---|
| Three tuners on each side | Strings wind toward the center of the headstock |
| Six tuners in a line | All strings wind the same way, so they leave the post on the inside |
Step 5: Tune up and stretch
- Tune each string roughly to pitch.
- Gently pull each string a few inches away from the fretboard along its length. Don't yank.
- Retune. The strings will have dropped flat.
- Repeat two or three times until the tuning holds.
New strings keep settling for a day or two, so expect to retune more often at first. Our guide on how to tune a guitar covers tuning in detail.
Step 6: Trim the ends
Once the strings hold their tuning, cut the excess at the posts, leaving about a quarter inch. Short ends look tidier and won't poke you, but don't cut so close that the string can slip.
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Changing strings on different guitar types
Guitars with a floating tremolo
Some electric guitars have a bridge that floats, balanced between the strings pulling one way and springs in the back pulling the other. If you remove all the strings at once, the bridge tips forward and the balance has to be reset. On these guitars, change one string at a time: remove the old low E, fit and tune the new one, then move to the A string, and so on. Many players also slip a small block of wood or a folded cloth under the back of the bridge while restringing to hold it level.
Locking tuners
Locking tuners have a small wheel or thumbscrew that clamps the string inside the post, so you need little or no wrapping. Pull the string tight through the post, lock it, then tune up. Strings change much faster and tuning is very stable, which is why many gigging players fit them.
Twelve-string guitars
The process is the same, but there are twice as many strings and the octave strings are very thin. Work methodically, one pair at a time, and double-check which gauge goes in which slot. Expect it to take about twice as long.
Bass guitars
Bass strings are thick and stiff, so they need fewer wraps around the post, usually two to three. Measure carefully before cutting, because cutting a bass string too short can make it unusable, and some brands warn against cutting the wound section near the ball end at all.
A quick string-changing checklist
- Lay out the new strings in order, thickest to thinnest, so you don't mix them up.
- Loosen and remove the old strings, keeping your face away from the headstock.
- Wipe down the fretboard and body while the strings are off.
- Seat each new string at the bridge and check the ball end is secure.
- Leave the right amount of slack, kink, and wind neatly downward.
- Tune, stretch, retune, and repeat until the pitch holds.
- Trim the ends to about a quarter inch.
- Play for a few minutes, then check the tuning again.
Keep the empty string envelopes in your case for a few weeks. If a string breaks early, the envelope tells you exactly which gauge to buy as a replacement.
Common string-changing mistakes
- Too few wraps. The string can slip, and tuning drifts constantly.
- Too many wraps. Overlapping coils compress over time and make tuning unstable.
- Ball end resting on the bridge pin instead of the bridge plate on acoustics, which can cause the pin to pop out.
- Wrong string in the wrong slot. Check the gauge printed on each envelope before you start.
- Skipping the stretch. Without stretching, new strings will go flat for days.
How long do strings last?
| String type | Typical life with regular playing |
|---|---|
| Uncoated acoustic (bronze) | 1 to 3 months |
| Uncoated electric (nickel) | 1 to 3 months |
| Coated strings | 3 to 5 months |
| Classical nylon | 2 to 4 months |
Wiping your strings with a dry cloth after playing and washing your hands before you play both extend string life noticeably.
When to see a guitar tech
If your guitar won't stay in tune even with fresh, properly stretched strings, the problem may be worn tuners, a sticky nut slot or a setup issue. A local guitar shop can check it. A full setup typically costs around $50 to $80 in the US and can make a guitar much easier to play.
Next steps
After your first two or three string changes, the whole process will take about fifteen minutes. Fresh strings make practice more enjoyable, and enjoyable practice is practice you'll actually do.
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Frequently asked questions
How often should I change my guitar strings?
If you play a few times a week, every one to three months is typical. Change them sooner if they sound dull, feel rough or grimy, look discolored, or won't stay in tune. Coated strings last longer, often three to five months.
Should I change all the strings at once?
Usually yes. Changing all six keeps the tone even across the strings. The exception is replacing a single broken string on fairly new strings, which is fine.
How many times should a string wrap around the tuning post?
Aim for about two to three wraps on the thick strings and three to five on the thin strings. Too few wraps can slip; too many can make tuning unstable.
Why won't my new strings stay in tune?
New strings stretch for the first day or two. Gently pull each string away from the fretboard a few times after tuning, then retune, and repeat until they hold pitch.
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